Meet Eva Scrivo: Architect of Hair Styling
Expert stylist gives tips on everything you need to know to score a great haircut.
Posted by Kristin Larson on Saturday, May 16, 2009 4:14 PM
Are you salon phobic?Do you get nervous every time a hairstylist wields their scissors upon your hair?
I was that person—until recently. Until I met Eva Scrivo (left, there's me getting my tresses trimmed by Eva).
My salon phobia did not happen overnight. It culminated following a string of strange haircuts that still remain a mystery to me.
I’ve had my hair cut lop-sided (left side longer than the right side and no, it was not an asymmetrical cut), I’ve asked for a trim and wound up leaving the salon with a chin-length bob, I’ve been scorned for having such thick hair (“Your hair is so hard to cut”).
Then, I got what I call the “mop” cut—short layers cut underneath with the top layers left long giving the appearance of stringy long mop hair. It took about eight months to grow the mop out. That’s when the salon phobia started and I simply didn’t know what stylist I could trust. Was there a stylist out there who listens? I didn’t want Katie Holmes’ chic coif or Posh Spice’s fierce bob—I just wanted a stylish, flattering cut that suited me—how did that become so difficult?
Then, through much online research, I found Eva Scrivo. I knew Scrivo must be good; after all, she styles Martha Stewart's hair as well as Sally Field and Katie Lee Joel.
I called the downtown NYC salon and explained my hair trauma. Even the receptionist seemed to calm my nerves—I felt a sense of relaxation I had not experienced at other hair establishments. Then, the big day arrived and I admit I was still nervous. Looking like Cousin It, my long, shapeless hair was nearly one-length and desperately needed a makeover.
(See below.)In her self-assured manner, Scrivo somehow erased any last-minute jitters I had. She recommended I remove some of the weight from my hair and add more layers, which would give it dimension and movement—I agreed. I wanted the life and energy back in my hair. I had faith—this whole cut and experience was going to be good. I had a feeling.
Fortunately, I was right—I love the cut (see below). My hair moves. It bounces. It feels lighter. It seems to shine more. I love the way it feels and I will definitely be back.
Scrivo is more like an architect of hair and her philosophy toward hair is based on each individual—she designs a cut based on the woman’s face shape but also her wish list. This personalized attention is what was missing from my previous hair experiences.
In one day, my faith in hair stylists was restored. Thank you Eva Scrivo. Thank you.
Obviously, not everyone is in NYC and can go to the Eva Scrivo salon, but below are Scrivo’s tips on hairstyling, what defines a great cut and how to find a stylist you will love—at a salon near you.
You can also receive more beauty tips from Scrivo on her beauty blog at: Evasbeautyblog.com and catch her on live radio on Tuesdays at 4 p.m. EST on Sirius Radio 112.
What’s your approach to hair styling?
I design a haircut based on not only a woman’s face shape but also what her wish list is. Let’s say she always wanted to broaden her face or make her eyes seem wider. The architecture of good haircutting supports those desires. You can cut layers at the point where you want to bring definition to. You can also use asymmetrical lines to soften the lines around the neck, strengthen a cheekbone and slim the face.
How do you define a good haircut?
It’s kind of like a much less-expensive facelift. A woman can look 10 years younger with the art of hairdressing. Here at the salon we educate every stylist to look at every woman as an individual and beauty as a whole.
For instance, adding height to the top of the hair can make women look taller and slimmer. For women with a long, narrow face you can strengthen the width of the left and right of the hair shape. Good hairdressing becomes a way to balance one’s features.
We’ve all seen what a bad haircut can do – it actually makes us look different. So when you have a good haircut it makes you feel and look beautiful. And every face shape is different and every head shape is different, so stylists need to look not just at celebrities and trends but how do you stylize and customize the cut to the individual.
How do you know if you have a good cut?
If you can work with a haircut in less than 20 minutes you have a great haircut. If the hair moves, you have a great haircut because hair is about a feeling.
Why should someone invest in a haircut?
First of all, there’s happiness. If you’re not happy, nothing has any value no matter how expensive or what kind of deal you have. And if you spend $100 on a service that actually makes you look better, it’s one night on the town or one dinner out. With what women spend on handbags and shoes, a haircut is a permanent accessory that compliments every step you take and can make you move through the world with more confidence. It’s a very powerful thing and something that is worth the investment.
What should stylists do to ensure they’re giving a good cut?
Stylists need to take their time and not only putting in a strong shape initially in cutting the hair wet but recutting the hair dry to remove excess weight where necessary and when needed. And look objectively at the work and see what the haircut might need. It’s really about taking the time for the finishing look. The more even and perfect the haircut the more balanced it is and the easier it is to style.
What tips can you give to someone to find a good stylist?
If you’re going to someone in your hometown – I recommend asking how many years experience they have – over five years is a good indicator and how much advanced education they have, have they went through Vidal Sassoon and Tony & Guy training— those are usually good advanced courses. Schedule a consultation, which is usually complimentary; ask them if they have a portfolio that you can see. They might have their own Web site or just a few snapshots. Some people have it on Facebook. A good stylist will have samplings of their work and take pride in their work and they’re usually working in fashion or editorial. Also, just asking someone – if you see someone with hair similar to your texture or thickness I think it’s very appropriate to ask someone where they go.
Do photos help?
I love photos, they help bridge the gap of communication, I also love photos of what they don’t like. It just makes my job easier. I like having more visual examples. I think it’s very important to see. I’ve even had clients bring photos of themselves like ‘I hated this,’ ‘I loved this,’ and ‘This was my favorite time with my hair’ and I find that to be very helpful to what the client really wants.
Do you have to go to the best hair salon in town to get a good cut?
I think going to a higher-end salon increases the potential of being happy because the top stylists have experience whether they went to advanced training or are trained by the owner personally. At high-end salons, there’s a grueling apprentice program and usually 1 out of 10 make it to become stylists. At the same token, a junior stylist trained by an owner personally might be far more advanced than someone who has had no training and has been working for 20 years.
Go for a consultation and think of it as you’re interviewing the stylist. You’re the client and it’s your money. Remember this is a service business, it’s an artistic business, too. You don’t walk into a restaurant and you don’t have whatever the chef tells you.
So often, stylists do have attitudes. What do you think about that?
Never feel uncomfortable. Ultimately it’s about having your needs met and hurting someone else’s feelings is not as important as the client being happy.
Everyone always asks me how to break up with my stylist and I say first of all ‘you’re not in an intimate relationship.’ But I recommend writing a note and say ‘you might see me again and I just want to make a change. I really just wanted to try something new.’ A client should never have to feel they have to explain anything.
As a stylist, who do you respect in the business and what do you love?
I love the Bumble and Bumble techniques and their razoring I think are great. The Wella hair coloring techniques. I look to the streets of New York for inspiration, British fashion magazines. Old movies. I think all of these are great when it comes to iconic beauty and how we can bring some of that shape and glamour into this millennium.
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