Saturday, February 13, 2010
Friday, June 26, 2009
Frizz Free
Original Article
Pricey serums, scorchingly hot tools, noxious straightening chemicals like formaldehyde -- women aren't afraid to bring out the big guns in the war on frizz. But many of these methods can actually cause frizz. "When the cuticle is damaged -- which can occur from chemical processing, UV exposure, or excessive heat styling -- it becomes porous, allowing water to enter the hair shaft and swell it open," says Joseph Cincotta, a cosmetic chemist. In civilian terms, that's frizz -- and you don't have to have curly hair to get it. Thankfully, there are safe solutions, including breakthrough products that seal the cuticle to keep out moisture and simple but effective styling techniques.
Choose a shampoo and conditioner for your hair type with smoothing ingredients such as silicones. Wash hair, then leave conditioner on for a full five minutes. Once out of the shower, blot -- don't rub -- hair with a towel.
Rub a dime-size drop of anti-frizz serum or cream between your hands; rake your fingers through the length of hair, concentrating on the outer layer. If hair is particularly damaged, spritz on a heat-protecting spray.
If you are wearing your hair straight, blow-dry it using the dryer's nozzle attachment and a big round brush. The technique is up to you, as long as you aim the air down the hair shaft and keep at it until hair is completely dry.
Or, if you are wearing your hair curly, dry from underneath, using a diffuser attachment on the blow-dryer; cup the ends of your hair with your hand and gently lift them up a few inches as you go to help keep curls intact.
For straight hair, spritz shine spray into one palm and rub your hands together, then smooth lightly over hair. Do the same for curly hair, using an anti-frizz styling cream; be sure to just skim palms over the surface to avoid flattening.
Once a week, apply a deep-conditioning treatment with keratin to damp, just-shampooed hair. Leave it on for ten minutes. The conditioners seal the cuticle to keep out moisture, while the keratin strengthens it to resist damage.
Pricey serums, scorchingly hot tools, noxious straightening chemicals like formaldehyde -- women aren't afraid to bring out the big guns in the war on frizz. But many of these methods can actually cause frizz. "When the cuticle is damaged -- which can occur from chemical processing, UV exposure, or excessive heat styling -- it becomes porous, allowing water to enter the hair shaft and swell it open," says Joseph Cincotta, a cosmetic chemist. In civilian terms, that's frizz -- and you don't have to have curly hair to get it. Thankfully, there are safe solutions, including breakthrough products that seal the cuticle to keep out moisture and simple but effective styling techniques.
Choose a shampoo and conditioner for your hair type with smoothing ingredients such as silicones. Wash hair, then leave conditioner on for a full five minutes. Once out of the shower, blot -- don't rub -- hair with a towel.
Rub a dime-size drop of anti-frizz serum or cream between your hands; rake your fingers through the length of hair, concentrating on the outer layer. If hair is particularly damaged, spritz on a heat-protecting spray.
If you are wearing your hair straight, blow-dry it using the dryer's nozzle attachment and a big round brush. The technique is up to you, as long as you aim the air down the hair shaft and keep at it until hair is completely dry.
Or, if you are wearing your hair curly, dry from underneath, using a diffuser attachment on the blow-dryer; cup the ends of your hair with your hand and gently lift them up a few inches as you go to help keep curls intact.
For straight hair, spritz shine spray into one palm and rub your hands together, then smooth lightly over hair. Do the same for curly hair, using an anti-frizz styling cream; be sure to just skim palms over the surface to avoid flattening.
Once a week, apply a deep-conditioning treatment with keratin to damp, just-shampooed hair. Leave it on for ten minutes. The conditioners seal the cuticle to keep out moisture, while the keratin strengthens it to resist damage.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Frizz Free Products
- Look for shampoo and conditioner with silicones. For thick hair, try Biolage Smooththérapie Shampoo and Conditioner; for curls, try Bain de Terre All About Curls Shampoo and Conditioner (biolage.com; baindeterre.com).
- Water-based products tame frizz well on straight hair. We like Garnier Fructis Sleek & Shine Anti-Frizz Serum (1) for use on damp hair. On dry hair, try Redken Vinyl Glam 02 Mega Shine Spray (3) (garnierusa.com; redken.com).
- For curly hair, choose anti-frizz creams rather than serums or sprays. If you plan to blow-dry hair straight, go with John Frieda Collection Frizz-Ease Smoothing Crème. If diffusing curls, try Living Proof No Frizz Styling Cream (2). To skim over dry hair, we like L'Oréal Professionnel Liss Ultime Smoothing Leave-In Treatment (4) (johnfrieda.com; Living Proof, sephora.com; lorealprofessionnel.com).
- Use a weekly treatment with keratin, such as Liquid Keratin Deep De-Frizz Conditioner (liquidkeratin.com).
Monday, June 22, 2009
Top 20 Secrets
Original article
1. Cool Your Conditioner "Leave conditioner in the fridge to keep it cool. This way, it will instantly seal the cuticles because it's already at a low temperature." -- celebrity hairstylist Tippi Shorter
2. Apply Product Strategically "Where you should apply product depends on texture. For fine hair, concentrate volumizers near the root for body and lift. For other textures, don't start at the top of your head or with your bangs because too much styling or smoothing product there will weigh down your hair." -- celebrity hairstylist Kiyah Wright
3. Rinse, Then Rinse Again "The key to a sleek, shiny finish is a thorough cleansing. Take the time to rinse well-- leftover oils, dirt and products make hair look dull and lifeless. A clean canvas ensures a great style." -- celebrity hairstylist David Babaii
4. Plump Up Fine Hair "Mousse is great for adding volume to fine hair. Apply it only to the roots-- to avoid making hair appear stringy-- then hold hair vertically and blast with heat to seal in volume." -- celebrity hairstylist Richard Marin
5. Fix Flyaways "Spritz holding spray onto a natural-bristle eyebrow brush. Use it to lock unruly hairs into place around your part, hairline and above the ears." -- celebrity hairstylist Mark Townsend
6. Butter Up Brittle Strands To moisturize dry hair, apply organic almond butter to the parched areas. Let the butter soak in for 30 minutes, then shampoo and rinse well. -- David Babaii
7. Dry Curls Like a Pro "Blow-drying curly hair can be tricky. The key is to keep your blow-dryer on the lowest setting and direct the air downward to prevent frizz. Want more definition? Once it's completely dry, set your hair in large heated rollers, tucking the hair under and rolling up instead of outward. Leave the rollers in for 20 minutes and then run your fingers through your hair to create loose, flowing curls." -- celebrity hairstylist Frédéric Fekkai
8. Beat the Bends Hold loose strands back while applying your makeup with a duckbill clip. Place a folded tissue (or a business card) between your hair and the clip to prevent creases. -- Tippi Shorter
9. Updating Your Hair Color? Update Your Lipstick Kiyah Wright suggests switching your lip color so the new shades work together. Here are her perfect pairings:
Blond: Blond hair looks great with pastel pink lip hues, as well as rich tomato-y reds.
Redhead: Red is a bold hair color, so use rosy lipsticks and lip stains that match your natural lip color.
Brunette: Plum, nude and sheer lip tones all work best with dark hair.
1. Cool Your Conditioner "Leave conditioner in the fridge to keep it cool. This way, it will instantly seal the cuticles because it's already at a low temperature." -- celebrity hairstylist Tippi Shorter
2. Apply Product Strategically "Where you should apply product depends on texture. For fine hair, concentrate volumizers near the root for body and lift. For other textures, don't start at the top of your head or with your bangs because too much styling or smoothing product there will weigh down your hair." -- celebrity hairstylist Kiyah Wright
3. Rinse, Then Rinse Again "The key to a sleek, shiny finish is a thorough cleansing. Take the time to rinse well-- leftover oils, dirt and products make hair look dull and lifeless. A clean canvas ensures a great style." -- celebrity hairstylist David Babaii
4. Plump Up Fine Hair "Mousse is great for adding volume to fine hair. Apply it only to the roots-- to avoid making hair appear stringy-- then hold hair vertically and blast with heat to seal in volume." -- celebrity hairstylist Richard Marin
5. Fix Flyaways "Spritz holding spray onto a natural-bristle eyebrow brush. Use it to lock unruly hairs into place around your part, hairline and above the ears." -- celebrity hairstylist Mark Townsend
6. Butter Up Brittle Strands To moisturize dry hair, apply organic almond butter to the parched areas. Let the butter soak in for 30 minutes, then shampoo and rinse well. -- David Babaii
7. Dry Curls Like a Pro "Blow-drying curly hair can be tricky. The key is to keep your blow-dryer on the lowest setting and direct the air downward to prevent frizz. Want more definition? Once it's completely dry, set your hair in large heated rollers, tucking the hair under and rolling up instead of outward. Leave the rollers in for 20 minutes and then run your fingers through your hair to create loose, flowing curls." -- celebrity hairstylist Frédéric Fekkai
8. Beat the Bends Hold loose strands back while applying your makeup with a duckbill clip. Place a folded tissue (or a business card) between your hair and the clip to prevent creases. -- Tippi Shorter
9. Updating Your Hair Color? Update Your Lipstick Kiyah Wright suggests switching your lip color so the new shades work together. Here are her perfect pairings:
Blond: Blond hair looks great with pastel pink lip hues, as well as rich tomato-y reds.
Redhead: Red is a bold hair color, so use rosy lipsticks and lip stains that match your natural lip color.
Brunette: Plum, nude and sheer lip tones all work best with dark hair.
Friday, June 19, 2009
The Truth about Your Hair: Part 3
Original Article
Notes about detangling hair and hair loss:
Many people are misinformed that it is safer to detangle the hair while it is dry. One must understand that the hair can stretch up to 50% of its length while wet without breakage, however, while dry, hair will break before it stretches 25% of its length. It is best to keep a wide-toothed comb within your shower to detangle & seal split-ends, as described above, while using a low pH (3.5 to 5.5 acidic) crème rinse or daily conditioner.
On the subject of misperceived hair loss - many people turn fearful upon seeing their hairbrush & shower drain filled with an inordinate amount of their hair. I wish to relieve some of this fear by stating the fact that each strand of hair has a lifespan of 2 to 7 years before a new hair begins to grow in its place, pushing it out to end up in one's brush or shower drain. This means everyone sheds 50 to 80 hairs from their head everyday. If one has longer hair it may give the false appearance that they a shedding more hair daily than the average amount. One should only be concerned if the hair being shed daily is not being replaced by new hair growth, however, this is the subject of a future article.
Notes about detangling hair and hair loss:
Many people are misinformed that it is safer to detangle the hair while it is dry. One must understand that the hair can stretch up to 50% of its length while wet without breakage, however, while dry, hair will break before it stretches 25% of its length. It is best to keep a wide-toothed comb within your shower to detangle & seal split-ends, as described above, while using a low pH (3.5 to 5.5 acidic) crème rinse or daily conditioner.
On the subject of misperceived hair loss - many people turn fearful upon seeing their hairbrush & shower drain filled with an inordinate amount of their hair. I wish to relieve some of this fear by stating the fact that each strand of hair has a lifespan of 2 to 7 years before a new hair begins to grow in its place, pushing it out to end up in one's brush or shower drain. This means everyone sheds 50 to 80 hairs from their head everyday. If one has longer hair it may give the false appearance that they a shedding more hair daily than the average amount. One should only be concerned if the hair being shed daily is not being replaced by new hair growth, however, this is the subject of a future article.
Thursday, June 18, 2009
The Truth about Your Hair: Part 2
Original Article
Conclusion #2: Since the hair we visually see above the surface of the scalp is essentially dead matter, how can we repair it from external environmental and/or chemical damage? First, we must realize that any product remedy we might add to our hair is always a temporary fix, no matter how good it is at initially solving certain hair challenges. Any product that is effective at controlling frizzies must be used periodically to continue to be effective. Some haircare products work for longer periods between uses, while others must be used every day to overcome challenges like split-ends.
This brings us to several fallacies concerning the shampoo and conditioning of hair. One of which is that a shampoo alone can increase the overall health of the hair. Shampoo, no matter what exotic or expensive ingredients are added to it, is designed to perform one single task - to cleanse the hair of excessive sebum (natural oils), body sweat and environmental impurities. It is a scientific contradiction that cleansing the hair alone will keep it healthy, once you have stripped it of all of its natural protective properties, like sebum. The longer your hair is, the less the chance is that these natural hair oils will reach the mid-shaft to ends of your hair with daily shampooing. This leaves the older and more vulnerable sections of the hairshaft exposed to further damage from heated styling appliances and chemical processes, such coloring or permanent waving.
Therefore, the mid-shaft to ends of your hair do not need the same intense daily cleansing as the first few inches of hair closest to the scalp. The remedy is very simple - as you gently massage your scalp while shampooing, only apply and focus your shampoo within the first 2 - 3 inches of hair closest to your scalp. When you rinse the shampoo from this base section of the hair it will quickly pass though the mid-shaft to ends of your hair, thus providing these areas with the lighter cleansing they require.
Many people have the misconception that daily conditioning (protection) of their hair will cause flatness or added weight. This challenge is easily resolved by, first, knowing how to physically condition the hair and, second, by understanding the different intended uses of the main 3 types of conditioners, i.e. - rinses, daily and deep conditioners.
Daily conditioning (protecting) any type of hair, from thin & fine to thick & frizzy, is basically the same. It is simply the reverse concept of shampooing hair as discussed above - considering that throughout the course of the day the first 3 inches of hair closest to the scalp will receive an adequate supply of naturally-occurring hair oil (sebum). Therefore, if you condition this area with a crème rinse or daily conditioner it can become over-conditioned, heavy & less manageable. The solution is to apply your conditioner from the mid-shaft (3 inches from scalp) of the hair to the ends. Then using a wide-toothed comb and holding onto the ends of your hair, gently comb the conditioner from mid-shaft to ends for even distribution, detangling and sealing split ends. By the time you finish doing this, the conditioner will have remained within your hair for the appropriate 3 to 5 minutes to be effective in temporarily repairing any damaged or frizzy areas.
The concept for applying deep conditioners is the same as above, however, the time the conditioner is left within the hair must be extended up to 20 minutes to allow penetration into the inner (cortical) layer of the hairshaft - only 10 minutes if your wrap your hair in a moist, hot towel. Deep conditioning should be done sparingly - once per week for most hair types. Deep conditioning the hair more than this is could cause the opposite intended effect. If you over-use a protein-based deep conditioner to strengthen and add body, it could cause the hair to become dry and brittle. If you over-use a moisturizing or oil-based deep conditioner, it could cause your hair to become limp and lifeless.
Conclusion #2: Since the hair we visually see above the surface of the scalp is essentially dead matter, how can we repair it from external environmental and/or chemical damage? First, we must realize that any product remedy we might add to our hair is always a temporary fix, no matter how good it is at initially solving certain hair challenges. Any product that is effective at controlling frizzies must be used periodically to continue to be effective. Some haircare products work for longer periods between uses, while others must be used every day to overcome challenges like split-ends.
This brings us to several fallacies concerning the shampoo and conditioning of hair. One of which is that a shampoo alone can increase the overall health of the hair. Shampoo, no matter what exotic or expensive ingredients are added to it, is designed to perform one single task - to cleanse the hair of excessive sebum (natural oils), body sweat and environmental impurities. It is a scientific contradiction that cleansing the hair alone will keep it healthy, once you have stripped it of all of its natural protective properties, like sebum. The longer your hair is, the less the chance is that these natural hair oils will reach the mid-shaft to ends of your hair with daily shampooing. This leaves the older and more vulnerable sections of the hairshaft exposed to further damage from heated styling appliances and chemical processes, such coloring or permanent waving.
Therefore, the mid-shaft to ends of your hair do not need the same intense daily cleansing as the first few inches of hair closest to the scalp. The remedy is very simple - as you gently massage your scalp while shampooing, only apply and focus your shampoo within the first 2 - 3 inches of hair closest to your scalp. When you rinse the shampoo from this base section of the hair it will quickly pass though the mid-shaft to ends of your hair, thus providing these areas with the lighter cleansing they require.
Many people have the misconception that daily conditioning (protection) of their hair will cause flatness or added weight. This challenge is easily resolved by, first, knowing how to physically condition the hair and, second, by understanding the different intended uses of the main 3 types of conditioners, i.e. - rinses, daily and deep conditioners.
Daily conditioning (protecting) any type of hair, from thin & fine to thick & frizzy, is basically the same. It is simply the reverse concept of shampooing hair as discussed above - considering that throughout the course of the day the first 3 inches of hair closest to the scalp will receive an adequate supply of naturally-occurring hair oil (sebum). Therefore, if you condition this area with a crème rinse or daily conditioner it can become over-conditioned, heavy & less manageable. The solution is to apply your conditioner from the mid-shaft (3 inches from scalp) of the hair to the ends. Then using a wide-toothed comb and holding onto the ends of your hair, gently comb the conditioner from mid-shaft to ends for even distribution, detangling and sealing split ends. By the time you finish doing this, the conditioner will have remained within your hair for the appropriate 3 to 5 minutes to be effective in temporarily repairing any damaged or frizzy areas.
The concept for applying deep conditioners is the same as above, however, the time the conditioner is left within the hair must be extended up to 20 minutes to allow penetration into the inner (cortical) layer of the hairshaft - only 10 minutes if your wrap your hair in a moist, hot towel. Deep conditioning should be done sparingly - once per week for most hair types. Deep conditioning the hair more than this is could cause the opposite intended effect. If you over-use a protein-based deep conditioner to strengthen and add body, it could cause the hair to become dry and brittle. If you over-use a moisturizing or oil-based deep conditioner, it could cause your hair to become limp and lifeless.
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
The Truth about your Hair
This week will focus on a series of articles that debunk the myths about hair. This is taken from an article by Maximilian Cannon.
Conclusion #1:We must be concerned with preventative maintenance by creating a healthy environment below the surface of the scalp, where hair is germinated or born. Since hair in its basic form is 100% keratin (protein), our diets should consist of a good balance of easily digested protein, i.e. - dairy products, poultry and meat. For those of us who are vegans, good protein alternatives are nuts, beans and the old stand-by - peanut butter. I suspect that with the popular emergence of low-carbohydrate/high-protein diets, we in turn will begin to see more heads of hair with less frizzies and easily split ends.
Now, how do we ensure this quality protein gets to the living roots of our hair? Just as we stimulate quality muscle growth through exercising and bringing protein-laden blood to specific body parts, we can do the same for our hair. This is easily achieved by simply massaging your scalp, once a day, while you shampoo and condition your hair. You'll not only have cleaner and more thoroughly conditioned hair, but you will have stimulated protein-supplying blood to feed the germinating roots of your hair. Be careful to use only the pads of your fingers in small circular motions as you gently massage your scalp. Never use your fingernails for this purpose as you can cause abrasions to your scalp that could lead to infection and possible skin disorders.
Conclusion #1:We must be concerned with preventative maintenance by creating a healthy environment below the surface of the scalp, where hair is germinated or born. Since hair in its basic form is 100% keratin (protein), our diets should consist of a good balance of easily digested protein, i.e. - dairy products, poultry and meat. For those of us who are vegans, good protein alternatives are nuts, beans and the old stand-by - peanut butter. I suspect that with the popular emergence of low-carbohydrate/high-protein diets, we in turn will begin to see more heads of hair with less frizzies and easily split ends.
Now, how do we ensure this quality protein gets to the living roots of our hair? Just as we stimulate quality muscle growth through exercising and bringing protein-laden blood to specific body parts, we can do the same for our hair. This is easily achieved by simply massaging your scalp, once a day, while you shampoo and condition your hair. You'll not only have cleaner and more thoroughly conditioned hair, but you will have stimulated protein-supplying blood to feed the germinating roots of your hair. Be careful to use only the pads of your fingers in small circular motions as you gently massage your scalp. Never use your fingernails for this purpose as you can cause abrasions to your scalp that could lead to infection and possible skin disorders.
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